Similarly, by the end, I had a good feel of the Istanbul\ninternational terminal. I knew where everything was. I knew where the good food\nplaces were. I saw the level of anger a janitor shows when a complete idiot\ntries to smoke a cigarette in a bathroom stall. I discovered if you find an\nempty departure gate, you have roughly 45-70 minutes to fall asleep there\nbefore it starts to get crowded with passengers waiting for their flight. This\nlast discovery led me to finding an empty gate, reading for a short while,\nfalling asleep for 15-45 minutes, waking up to lots of people around me, and\nthen leaving to find another empty gate. I can conservatively say that I took\nnaps in about 70% of Istanbul\u2019s International Terminal gates. Other people\nappeared to be doing the same thing which meant you may cross paths with the\nsame travelers every third gate or so. Hopefully this will be as close as I get\nto being homeless. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
For good measure, once up in the air, the Istanbul \u2013 Kathmandu\nleg of my trip was lengthened a couple hours due to an unplanned extension of\nthe flight path followed by too much air traffic at Kathmandu. The latter\ncaused us to circle over Katmandu Valley for 40 minutes, granting us rich views\nof the Himalayas and Everest multiple times. The reason the flight path was\nextended was that we were forced to avoid Pakistani airspace. In February,\nterrorists from Pakistan set off an attack in the Indian city of Pulwama which\nled India to launch a strike on a terrorist camp in Pakistan which led to a\nfailed Pakistani retaliation. All of this escalation caused a closure of\nPakistani airspace, causing delays and longer flights. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
When I exited the airport, I got a wonderful vibe from the\npeople. They seemed to have that easygoing, balanced, genuine nature I have\nseen in Thailand and the Philippines\u2026all countries that have no desire for\nworld domination or at least the domination of their neighbors. The staff at\nKathmandu Embassy Hotel was precious as was Nirmal, the owner who also ran the\ntravel\/tour agency that arranged my entire trip. I believe he should feel\ncompelled to create an ab workout called Ab-Nirmal: \u201cAb-Nirmal\u2026if you want abs\nthat are so toned, they\u2019re ABnormal, then you need Ab-Nirmal!\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The following morning I ate breakfast on the hotel\u2019s roof\ntop eating area. As I ate, I watched the morning\u2019s fog slowly get replaced by a\nhaze of dust and pollution. After eating, Nirmal offered to give me a ride to\nthe neighborhood of Thamel on the back of his small motorbike, allowing me to\nbecome the white American date he never had or wanted.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
As we rode along, I felt like a blood cell flowing through a\nseries of veins, appreciating all the near misses that were not upgraded to\ncollisions. We crossed over a main road into Thamel and motored our way through\na network of tight shop-lined streets that gave an overall sensation of eating\nyour way through a Pac Man board. Thamel was the place to go before your trek.\nIt\u2019s loaded with tour guides and shops that sell and rent hiking gear. I bought\na winter coat, pair of trekking poles, and water purification tablets for about\n$70. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Upon the recommendation of many, I walked west and then up\nto Swayambhunath, a temple home to Buddhists, Hindus, and monkeys. There were\nmonkeys climbing all over this site, probably feeding off the tourists. Less\ncute and more irritating was another pest who also feeds off tourists. A young\nman approached me at the base of the long stairway to the temple. He said he\nworked at the temple and began to explain the place in detail. A couple minutes\nin and about 100 steps up, I asked, \u201cWho pays you to work here? The\ngovernment?\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u201cNo,\u201d he said, \u201cpeople like you do. I asked him how much but he would not answer definitively. I didn\u2019t like where this was headed so I gave him 200 rupees and thanked him for his time. He was upset by this, saying I was supposed to pay him more. I advised him in the future to communicate his system more clearly to people before initiating a guided tour and proceeded up the stairs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I eventually walked back to Thamel and met Nirmal in his travel guide office. While we chatted, a Swiss man of about 50 named Andy walked in and greeted us. He had known Nirmal for over 20 years and was one of so many westerners that make annual and biannual pilgrimages to Nepal. I told Andy that I visited Zurich and Stein Am Rhein years ago. I commented how picturesque Stein Am Rhein was which caused Andy to reflect on how unfortunate it was that due to its close proximity to Germany, the US accidentally bombed it in WWII. I said I was sorry. He laughed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n As I looked around, I marveled at this robust tourist\nbusiness that slowly came to life after 1950, following the removal of the Rana\nregime which essentially opened Nepal up to the world. Before 1950, electricity\nwas only to be found in Kathmandu Valley. Outside the valley, there was no\nelectricity, literacy rates of 2-5%, and a massive death rate. No exaggeration\nis made when people say that before the 1950\u2019s, most of Nepal was living in a\nMedieval environment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n One of Nirmal\u2019s employees became woeful when pointing to the\nChinese businesses moving in. He expressed the frustration of being a\nlandlocked country caught between the two larger, more powerful countries of\nChina and India, forcing his country to master a balancing act that would\nmaximize good will from each neighbor while minimizing their disdain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The next morning I took a taxi to the airport and boarded a toy airplane that looked like it was old enough to be used in an Indiana Jones film. And I know this because there was an ashtray next to my seat. I think the last time you could smoke on a plane you could also unethically pat a woman\u2019s behind or drink in front of your boss at the office and suffer no ill consequences. If you\u2019re trying to frighten the feces out of your customers, having ashtrays in your plane is scarier than having an engine blow out over an area flooded with hostile terrorists. <\/p>\n\n\n\n On takeoff, the pilot did the usual propeller plane parlor\ntrick of applying the brakes, revving the engines, and then releasing the\nbrakes so the plane shot down the runway with a nice pop. The 25-minute flight\nwas flanked by the dry plains on the left and the snow-covered Himalayas on the\nright.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Down on the ground in Pokhara, I was picked up by a taxi and\ndriven to my hotel where I met my Sherpa guide Lakpa. This easygoing, smiley\nchap of 43 has the distinction of successfully climbing Everest. I asked him if\nhe\u2019d like to go back to this peak and he quickly said no. He no longer does\ndicey mountain ascents and instead does trekking only. And I thought I was\ntough for climbing onto a roof to fix a shingle one time but apparently not.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The two of us walked along the edge of Phewa Lake over to a small restaurant patronized predominantly by locals. After eating, a Tibetan craft lady showed me her wares (that was not meant to be filthy) so I purchased several items for my people. As a gift, she tied a friendship bracelet to my wrist and to Lakpa\u2019s wrist. The trek had not even begun and it was already wrought with awkward dangers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n After waking at 5:30 AM, I got myself together and met Lakpa\nin the lobby. Our intent was to head to the airport and board another tiny and\nprobably old plane and fly 25 minutes to Jomsom where our trek would begin.\nFlying to Jomsom is a bit squirrelly due to its robust elevation in the\nHimalayas. You can\u2019t fly in or out of this mountain town after 10AM since after\nthis time, almost every day, high winds arrive. If it happens to be windy\nbefore and up to 9AM, all flights will be cancelled. Today was such a day so we\nwere forced to remain in Pokhara at least one more day. This was not the worst\nthing in the world since the weather in Jomsom was 32 degrees and snowing while\nPokhara was a sunny, dry 75 degrees. <\/p>\n\n\n\n After a large meal, we walked down to the shore of Lake Phewa and rented a colorful wooden boat that we paddled around the lake for a few hours. I even swam in these fresh waters purely for good measure. On the opposite shore, we parked our boat next to a restaurant that commanded a sterling view of the lake and small city. Lakpa and I shared a beer and I asked him more about his successful Everest climb. He told me it took a few weeks to get to the top due to acclimatization issues that forced the party to go up and back down when someone developed altitude sickness. Lakpa said if it was just him and another Sherpa, they could have climbed Everest much more quickly. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Lakpa then shared an amazing piece of information about his\nancestry with me: the brother of his grandfather is none other than Tenzing\nNorgay. Along with Edmund Hillary, he was the first to officially climb Everest\nin 1953. I\u2019m sure Lakpa\u2019s Great Uncle was rolling in his grave as his Sherpa\nrelative spent the day canoeing instead of trekking. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The next morning our flight to Jomson was again cancelled\ndue to impudent weather conditions. Tomorrow will be the third time we drive down\nto the airport and attempt this flight. I tried to explain to Lakpa how this\nrepetitive airport\/flight cancellation business was like the movie Groundhog Day <\/em>but this accurate\nreference fell upon deaf ears. In fact, Lakpa had no idea who Bill Murray was. Upon\nreflection, perhaps I could have likened our experience to a rejected narrative\nof HBO\u2019s Westworld<\/em>, a show where\nandroid hosts exist in various repetitive story lines in a large-scale\namusement park for the enjoyment of the guests. \n<\/p>\n\n\n\n We have only been in Pokhara a couple days and have already\nracked up a large number of taxi rides due to the back and forth from the\nairport. I swear that each taxi we get in is smaller than the last.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Nothing to do with his lack of familiarity with Bill Murray,\nI told Lakpa I would enjoy having separate rooms (we shared a room the previous\nnight and tentatively continued to do so going forward). I stressed the fact of\nhow great of a roommate he was but it was the fact I had trouble sleeping\nthrough his snoring (he claimed to never snore which means his wife is\nextremely deaf or is extremely patient or sleeps in another room). His snoring\nat times had me thinking that someone was choking him to death. This was\nfollowed by a sound that resembled Darth Vader\u2019s crippled breathing after he\nsustains heavy electrical damage from manhandling the Emperor at the end of Return of the Jedi<\/em>. There may also have\nbeen a few rogue sleep farts but who the hell is keeping score in such matters?\nIt would be monumentally hypocritical of me to complain about these nocturnal\nwinds. <\/p>\n\n\n\n In any event, given all this, it was clear to me that all\nthe friendship bracelets in the world could not keep us together as roommates. <\/p>\n\n\n\n With another pristine day in the mid 70\u2019s, being in Pokhara\nwas not the worst thing in the world. This time we decided to rent a couple\nbikes and cycle up 350 meters in elevation to the Shanti Stupa where we were\nfurnished with varsity views pf Lake Phewa, Pokhara and the jacked Himalayas\nbehind. Our ride took us through some mildly hectic, extremely non-touristy\nroadways. The way back proved to be busier with all kinds of vehicles beeping\ntheir way past us. My favorite was courageously entering a roundabout loaded\nwith motorbikes, scooters, cars, and trucks. For fun, there were even a few\ncows walking against traffic in the middle of the roundabout.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Later on I saw a young cow lying in the middle of a very busy road with traffic buzzing by it in both directions. Cows seemed to walk aimlessly all over the country. Lakpa reminded me that due to the Nepalese belief that cows are sacred, they are rarely eaten here. Perhaps these dim animals are just bright enough to know this and feel empowered to the point of screwing with human transportation. <\/p>\n\n\n\n I would be remiss if I did not share two important\nobservations with you:<\/p>\n\n\n\n 1) Two or three years ago while in the Philippines, I suffered a rare moment of profound enlightenment. After losing sleep and hope to the sounds of so many barking dogs, I suddenly realized that my travels have taught me something unnervingly accurate: the more \u201cworlds\u201d your country has, the more barking dogs per capita will be found (see graph below that I drew while in Philippines). Nepal has supported this theory so strongly that I now believe it must be an \u201cEighth World\u201d country. I know this is impossible since I believe that anything over a Third World does not exist. This means perhaps there is another factor at play that has escaped me. Regardless, I struggle to convey just how many dogs are barking in this country. And what makes it even more special is that many of these dogs love to save up the majority of their barking power for human sleeping hours. The hotel we stayed at last night, the New United Hotel, was perhaps the first night\u2019s sleep not betrayed by this irritating chorus. <\/p>\n\n\n\n 2) People love spitting here. I know spitting happens all\nover the world but here it nears being an institution. If spitting is sex, the\ncourtship that precedes it would certainly be the loud hocking noise present in\nalmost all spitting engagements here. You can hear the hocking start from far\naway. It is so passionate you are convinced this is the last spit that this\nperson has been allowed to make. This may all sound a bit base but they somehow\ndo it in a way that does not give off an air of poor manners. What\u2019s more, they make every effort to spit in\nstreet gutters where no one will step. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The next morning I was up at 4AM. Today would be our third\nattempt at flying to Jomsom. We arrived at the airport before it opened so we\nwaited outside the main gate. I foolishly set my bag down on top of a concrete\nbarrier that was one of two that bordered each side of a short concrete bridge\nthat spanned over a three-foot drainage gutter designed to divert a natural\ntiny stream. Either one of us bumped into the bag or gravity had its way for I\nsoon found myself running down to the stream eight feet below where my bag was\nbathing. I then straddled the little stream like an aging gymnast and pulled my\nbag out. Fortunately I was able to get my clothes out and into Lakpa\u2019s bag\nbefore anything got wet and as it turned out, the water was not as smelly and\nfoul as I imagined. Feeling better about this mild annoyance, I went ahead and\nassumed my backpack was not marinated in fecal matter and yak urine and\ncontinued to use it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The backpack gods may have been frowning on me this day but\nthe deadly mountain flight gods were most certainly smiling. Our flight was\nfinally clear to leave and 25 minutes after takeoff, we were gently landing in\nJomson. Twenty-five minutes. The bus ride would have taken over ten brutal\nhours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n After eating breakfast at a charming restaurant, we walked three hours to Kagbeni where we stayed the night. Walking around this captivating little village, I noticed stacks of wood that lined the edges of the rooves on most of the houses. Lakpa confirmed that the wood was used as firewood but these piles served another purpose: they were also a sort of status symbol. A house with more wood on its roof is viewed as more prosperous. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Yet again there was an abominable little shit of a dog that\nbarked its way into my hate. The owners of our guest house lived across the\nslim street\/path and had a dog that liked to go onto the roof and bark at every\nforeign organism that came within 60 feet of the house. Lucky for me, the\nheight of the roof matched the height of my window exactly, allowing for\nmaximum irritation when this little pube barked while I attempted to nap. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Before turning in, Lakpa came up with the good idea of\nsimply moving to one of the rooms across the hall since it appeared we had the\nplace to ourselves. Only one of the rooms was unlocked so I decided to make\nsure it wasn\u2019t occupied. I looked inside and saw no belongings but there were\nlots of blankets spread out onto two small beds that had been pushed together.\nI vacillated for a while, wondering what I should do, even revisiting the room\nagain around 8:30 PM to see if anything had changed. I looked again at all the\nblankets and thought they were using this room to store extra blankets. In the\nend, I decided to sleep in the Barking Dog Suite. <\/p>\n\n\n\n When I awoke the next morning and passed by the room in\nquestion, I spotted two sets of slippers just outside the door, one belonging\nto an adult and the other clearly to one of the small children. Basically, I\nalmost fell asleep in the bed that was being used by a mother and her tiny\ndaughter which is great when you consider the moment they would have opened the\ndoor to the compact room to find me be bundled up in my sleeping bag, passed\nout in their bed, most likely drooling a little bit. <\/p>\n\n\n\n On our way to Kagbeni yesterday, about two miles before, a\ncute little dog decided that Lakpa and I were his new friends. I told this dog\nhe needed a friendship bracelet if he wanted to hang in our club. He followed\nus anyways. When we started on our way today, the cute little turd was waiting\nfor us outside our guesthouse and continued to follow us on our way to Muktinath.\nHe traced our steps for another two or three miles until we came to a\nsuspension bridge. Although the pup probably could have made it over the\nbridge, he would not follow us. It was as if a spell was placed on him by some\nsort of municipal dog catcher wizard. <\/p>\n\n\n\n I felt bad for our little friend but shortly after crossing the bridge, we ran into about eight friendly Australian trekkers. I told them how we unwittingly abandoned our buddy and they instantly made sounds of sympathy. I was happy to see these lads show their canine affection once they crossed the bridge back to where we left little guy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n As we ascended, I could feel the altitude in the way I would\nfeel the one cigarette a year I used to smoke. Kagbeni was about 3300 meters\nand now we topped out at about 4000 meters which is probably the highest land\nelevation I have achieved in my mildly adventurous lifetime. As far as I know,\nthis will be the highest elevation realized on this trip.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Muktinath, with its dirty roads almost has the feel of a town\nout of the old West, something like the town in Clint Eastwood\u2019s Pale Rider<\/em>. Now place this town in the\nHimalayas, swap the horses for ponies and donkeys, string up some rudimentary\npower lines, and allow the buildings to be adorned in a semi-planned Nepalese\nstyle. <\/p>\n\n\n\n As with our Kagbeni guesthouse, Lakpa knew the owner of Caravan Hotel in Muktinath. Like all the other guesthouses I\u2019ve seen up here, this place had rough wooden floors, stucco walls and exposed wooden ceilings. The stairways in all of these houses are guaranteed to provide vertigo. Each house also seems to be furnished with a chief lady. She shouts orders and always maintains a volume higher than the rest. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The guest houses appear to be hundreds of years old but in fact are only a few decades old or less. Perhaps levels and tape measure are hard to come by in these parts but the concepts of \u201clevel\u201d, \u201cplumb\u201d, and \u201csquare\u201d are not to be savored here, giving the look of an extremely haunted structure. Most of the windows are so out of square that the wind joyfully continues its journey right into your bedroom as you try to sleep on a 20-degree Fahrenheit night. <\/p>\n\n\n\n I can\u2019t stress enough just how insane the\nclearing-of-the-throat-into-spitting is. It is quite literally a part of life\nhere so fundamental that it must be tied to their survival in some way. When I\nam walking down the street, the greatest interval of time between one person\nhock-spitting and the next has probably been around 52 seconds. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Also of note is that even though the temperature is below\nfreezing at night and not much above that during the day, the front door will\nbe left open for about 18 hours a day. Perhaps I mentioned that none of these\nbuildings have heat? This causes me to leave my winter coat and hat on while\ninside and at night, I zip myself up in my -20-degree Fahrenheit sleeping bag\nand pray for dawn. <\/p>\n\n\n\n This morning provides yet a third ingredient to my mountain\ntravels. Flying up here three days ago, I had no appreciation just how arduous the\n10-hour bus ride from Pokhara to Jomsom is. My 25-minute flight completely\nglossed over the primitive, bruising nature of ground transportation here. The\nroads are so bad that I can\u2019t tell if they are slowly being built or slowly\nbeing destroyed. Landslides seem to be winning the battle for space on these\nroads. <\/p>\n\n\n\n As we were following the river valley slowly down towards\nPokhara, the bus frequently drives on either side of the river. Being from the\nUS, I would envision a bridge to achieve the crossing of a wide rocky area of\nmultiple shallow rivers but no, there are no bridges; here the rugged looking\nbus plows through the water. I assume and pray the driver is intimate enough\nwith these river depths. Progress is slow as the vehicle cautiously negotiates\nexciting dips and impolite holes, bottoming out at times and rudely throwing\nanyone in the back seats into the air. <\/p>\n\n\n\n As I write, the bus has had to pull over and wait a couple\nhours or more as construction vehicles block off the road for four-hour shifts\nso they can painstakingly clear and reshape the road after a major rockslide\n(this writing session happens roadside since any attempt to write onboard\nresults in something similar to baby\u2019s first drawing). <\/p>\n\n\n\n Yesterday, as Lakpa and I walked along a road to Jomsom,\nthere was a constant trickle of small stones and dirt that had formed a massive\npile that was in the process of slowly creeping out into the road. Lakpa said\nthere would probably be a landslide here during the monsoon season. This spot\nwas one of an innumerable amount along the road. Dangerous chunks of boulders,\ndirt, and trees hung over us on much of our journey. It made me respect the\nabsurd amount of time and resources needed to not just build a mountain road\nbut to maintain it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n While not busy having my spinal discs sadistically crushed on this bumpy bus ride, I had a wonderful conversation with a pleasant Indian gentleman of 65 named Rajesh. Like so many Indians travelling in the area, he had made a pilgrimage to Muktinath, home of a sacred Hindu site and temple. Hindus come to Muktinath to pray for passed loved ones and to collect special black rocks at the confluence of two mountain rivers. Before explaining this, Rajesh spent the first 30 minutes of our conversation to explain the many relatives he has that have lived in the US since the 1960\u2019s. The details of their professional successes and domestic minutiae represented a load of data impossible for me to pass on to you. Sorry. From what I have seen here, Indians take great pride and pleasure telling you of the great accomplishments of their relations. I have yet to hear about any Indian black sheep family members. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Rajesh was also pleased to report to me the total cost for a six-week European tour that he and his six relatives recently completed. The total sum of all travel expenses was $19,000. While this impressed me, I was equally impressed that Rajesh took the time to tally the final travel cost for his seven-person party. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Lakpa has just told me that this part of the road, from\nMuktinath down to Beni (about 60 miles) is only ten years old. What this means\nis that before this road, only ten years ago, all vehicles had to stop at Beni\nand unload all supplies and people. From there, people had to walk 60 miles\nthrough the mountains to get to Muktinath (unless they had money enough to fly\nto Jomsom and then walk five to seven hours to Muktinath). Like all the\nsupplies, they could also hop on the thousands of donkeys making the trip up.\nAlthough Jomsom could take in some supplies, this area still had depended\nlargely on donkeys and human porters to bring supplies to them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The apocalyptic bus ride came to an end for us in Tatopani. After dropping my things at the hotel, I walked over to the hot springs and soaked my frightened figure into a burning stew for a while. When I rose from the water, I gathered my things off a rock wall by some older Nepalese ladies that were preparing to enter the spring. One of them was incredibly sassy and upon seeing my uncovered body, she smiled devilishly and shouted many Nepalese words my way. All I could do was point to myself and proudly say, \u201cYeti!\u201d, hoping she had mistaken me for the mythological furry creature supposedly roaming the Himalayas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Later that night, I visited a small craft shop right next to\nour guest house. The tidy shop was piloted by a pleasant Tibetan lady. Having a\nfine hold of the English language, Tsering and I were able to have a robust\nconversation. Although Tibetan, Tsering has never seen Tibet. She was born in a\nrefugee camp in Pokhara where she still lives with her siblings and brother\nwhen not in Tatopani. Her mother arrived to the camp at the age of one, trying\nto escape the aggressive Chinese Communist regime. Although her life seems to\nbe simple and happy, Tsering informed me that growing up in a refugee camp was\nno pleasure cruise. She did extend an offer of having one of her family members\nshow me the camp when I returned to Pokhara but with my short stopover, I did\nnot make it happen which a large part of me regrets. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The next day I gobbled a couple pills in effort to curb the\npain and inflammation of my right knee. Luckily, it was enough to allow me to\nmake the six-mile, 900 meter rise to Shikha. We passed through dozens of\nterraced farm villages that were immersed in the ways of spring. I noticed\nthese lower mountains were more populated by both humans and plants than the\nMustang District we just came from. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Rhododendron trees were in full bloom, their brilliant red\ncolors only challenged by that of the colors of the ancient Hindu Holi festival\nbeing celebrated in every village we passed through. Powders of all colors were\non the ground and faces of many of the villagers. The festival seems to have a\nbroad purpose but it does celebrate love in the general sense, the arrival of\nspring, and a good spring harvest. Water fights also factor into this festival\nfor some reason. As I write, the local residents are screaming at the tops of\ntheir lungs, throwing water balloons and dousing each other with water any way\nthey can. At an earlier village, a little boy stood crying because he got\nsoaked by someone. About eight other people stood around the boy laughing as he\ncried, hopefully a good character-building experience for the young man.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/takethepatience.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/IMG_2312b-1024x392.jpg\")
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Seen on the grounds of the hot springs. In this case, \u201cMassage Room\u201d is Nepalese for \u201cWe take your western genitals and sell to Himalayan witch\u201d. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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